Because of propagation by the scholars, Yangcheng Lake red grease crab is known as " the king of crab " later, in fact , it is similar to the look of Xinghua crab. I was wondering with the baffled words of " heavy floodgate" of Yangcheng Lake Crab during a period, because there does not have a good crab in the adjacent place of sluice gate in my impression. After the meddler criticizes of a text in many ways, I draw the conclusion: The large grease crab's name origin had something to do with the tool which caught the crab unexpectedly: " The person who catches crab, among the harbors, must set up one floodgate , floodgate come to imprison the floodgate at night , put a lights at the bamboo weir with the bamboo plaiting article, the crab sees the flame , namely climb up the bamboo floodgate , people can catch it on the floodgate right away , it is very convenient, this is the origin of the name of the floodgate crab. " Bamboo floodgate is bamboo weir, one through in network fence that bank of the river fish, the crab reached to bamboo weir and been caught is known as the floodgate crab, the big shape is to call “large floodgate crab”, this make me feel laughable would not it be more precise to call " heavy bamboo weir crab "?
   There are a lot of way to eat crab, the most general one is steamed crab. After cleaning the living crab , ties crab's chela with the cotton rope , then put into the food steamer, then to take it out when steam completely, take away the rope, enter on the white plate neatly one by one, the red crab with white plate, use Zhenjiang aromatic vinegar and the powder of ginger , mixed condiments of soy sauce at the edge of the desk. Lift the crab shell accompanied with deep and remote thin chrysanthemum fragrance , crab grease like jades, the ovary and digestive glands of a crab is like gold, after going with the food with the condiments, it is fresh and fat in the mouth, sweet and oily, it is really the best enjoyment of color , smell and taste.The gastrologist says there should put a whole set of tools for eating this kind of crab: " eight tools for crab ", pull out, dig, strike one crab will costs you at least more than half an hour to finish eating, in order to without missing a piece of crab meat.The wine preserved crab is very famous way to eat crab, too.My grandfather likes eating this stuff when I was a child, he would like to make this stuff one or two jars every year.
 
Concocting the wine preserved crab will pass more than 20 dishes of processes, it is very troublesome. Roughly processes are choose the big shape , fat grease and strong river crabs or lake crabs first, enclose them in water and raise about half a month with the thin bamboo strips that have been woven, wait for all platoons of filth to the limit, then dry them for a few days, wipe off the hair and vapor the water , put the mixture of salt and roast prickly ash on the crab navel afterwards, put it into the wine preserved crab in the special-purpose jar, water into slowly with the sweet and delicious glutinous rice wine, the very thirsty crabs would drink fully at this moment fall over each other, until it is dead drunk, seal the jar for a month , till it becomes drunk material crab. And then make drunk saltwater brine to pour into with many kinds of raw materials , such as glutinous rice wine , salt , candy , ginger , spring onions , Chinese prickly ash , octagonal ,fennel ,etc., pouring into the daqu wine, cover the light plate to compress tightly, the jar is sealed and pitches firm with thestring of kraft paper or the lotus leaf on the mouth, it can unseal and eat in one week. Wine preserved crab appearance similar to the living crab , cut the crab first while having thebanquet , removes dirty things , such as crab's navel (commonly called as crab's rain cape made of straw or palm bark ) ,etc., slightly wash original bittern, cut into small pieces, behind the taste, there is a thin wine flavor , but have fragrant , sweet , salty , comfortable flavor concurrently, really sample definitely in human world , if Li Yu tastes this kind of crab, he might be able to say sincerely that he would devote his life for it.
    Once on a friend gathering, we have a dish of wine preserved crab, each ate one crab, but shortly a women colleague face flush with drink red , she lies prone to be drowsy at desk soon.
  " It is very fascinatingly to have the wine preserved crab, but it is very rare that it can make people drunk . "
—— Cunyan Gu  
 
     

When crab is fat & the chrysanthemum is blooming


  Every year when the chrysanthemums in full bloom and the cool autumn days coming, it is the best season to eat the crab.
  I do not originally have special hobby to the crab, I only think there is nothing different with fishes and shrimps. But once, mother makes one garlic sprout crab. When she is turned over and fries in the kitchen, fragrant smell wafts out from the kitchen, the room covering with the smell in a few seconds. Garlic sprout crab are ready for dinner soon, that is a plate of green and red, the jade-like crab, really make me intoxicated.
  Mother is a expert to boil crab, in order to make it convenient for us to take food, she chop crab into 2 halves usually, then cooking, there are a lot kinds of methods to cook: sometimes steamed, sometimes quick fry, no matter how to boil, fragrance always permeate round the house, so fragrant that the whole family are intoxicated. I like standing and watching aside , even if I do not cook, it is a kind of enjoyment to view and admire purely. At the time that crab is served, other brilliant rays of dishes are conceal by the crab totally, mother’s crab dish is really available delicacy " color, fragrance and taste ".
  The crab is different from the fishes and shrimps, the meat and mouth feel all have unique delicious taste , it is well known with the large floodgate crab particularly among them, that can be rated as the king of crab, every autumn, a lot of guests get Hong Kong to have the crab, in fact, large floodgate crab does not come from Hong Kong, its produce area is in Jiangsu Yangcheng Lake, large floodgate of lake crab in Yangchen Lake is the highest grade in the crab from ancient times , thousands of people are fascinated and chasing for it. Yangcheng Lake Crab were mainly sold outside in the past, the majority was transported to Hong Kong, but in recent years, a lot of people like to get to the origin produce area to enjoy it. Shanghai is regarded as a district of eating large floodgate crab, too. People can have genuine and cheap delicious large floodgate crab there.
I have not tasted for the large floodgate crabs of Hong Kong , but I have gorged on Shanghai instead. Common people likes to take crab from crab's grease , because the grease in the crab shell can be the most delicious part; And the crab has the common mother's differences, generally speaking, the male crab's grease comparatively slips softly , so persons who has a liking for crab generally all prefer eating the male one, but in the ninth lunar month, in season for mating of crab, female crab’s belly will full of crab ovum, so mother crab of September are the most luxuriant.
  In fact, the charming part of the crab, is its changeable mouth feeling. For example, it is fresh and fat in the mouth, sweet and oily, it is really the best enjoyment of color , smell and taste , from foot to crab's chela , every portion represents different style and features of sense of taste from crab , that make people ecstatic deeply. How to deal with the large floodgate crab there has the method。The expert people will break two crab chelas off with the fingers and

thumb first , unload the crab's feet, later people can open the cover of crab easily , there contains the most favorite grease of a crab inside, tender sweet. After having the crab's grease, begin to enjoy crab’s feet one by one. In fact, eating crab's feet needs some skills , too, breath in or dig, enjoyment comes from that process of sucking while digging. Somebody’s skill is even higher, he can have whole crab clean and completely and at the sametime he can remain the crab’s appearance as general like the sample unexpectedly.
  In addition, the first-class ginger vinegar juice is a indispensable condiments while take large floodgate crab , the ovary and grease of a crab, crab meat, stained with the ginger and vinegar juice, it will produce the catalysis at once, the ginger vinegar removes the offensive smell of the crab ingeniously , and can promote meat to be sweet , if one more pot of the high-grade crusted Shaoxing wine that can match warmly just right , it was delicious , fat , sweet and refreshing that the mellow wine added to the crab fragrantly, really brings out the best in each other, that is really the highest enjoyment in human world , it is no wonder for Bi Zhuo in Jin Dynasty said " holding a wineglass in right hand, holding a crab chela in left hand , floating in a boat , all one's life will settle for that ".
Crab makes a lot of people like it enthusiastically from ancient times. At the beginning of Qing Dynasty , there is a celebrated scholar in the south of China, Li Yu said " one chela thing only , heart can interested in it, mouth can taste its sweet, no matter which day in all one's life, can't all forget it ". He is a sheer epicurean, and a gourmet too, he likes eating crabs particularly, for being able to have the crab in the season of the year and take it everyday, he will save money before the time coming, in order that he can afford the expense of the crab on that time. What’s more, he study different types of crab cooking, there is a special place for him to make the wine preserved crab in his house. To the crab, he makes all-out efforts, even asking the special messenger to specialize in all of the crab, he is indeed crazy about the crab.
   There is a famous fishing port in our counties and cities, so long as there is a fishing port , there are fishing cities. Seafood there are all fresh new goods that debark just most, a lot of people will get there to eat one cheap and delicious seafood banquet far away. The crab there is fat and big , so there is seldom only whole steamed , most likely chop into pieces of dismemberment of the crab, only that crab chela, just as big as pliers accurately. Each restaurant or little shop in the fishing port are all good at boiling crabs, the price is much cheaper than the urban restaurant, too, that attracts a lot of guests love to fishing port to the fresh seafood.
  Even if inside and outside the large floodgate crab's name is enjoyed, but the people, who are not in the eating area in large floodgate crab, get to fishing port to eat crabs in autumn still can make people feel intoxicated , returns after thoroughly enjoying oneself.

     
     
     
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