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Because of propagation
by the scholars, Yangcheng Lake red grease crab is known
as " the king of crab " later, in fact , it
is similar to the look of Xinghua crab. I was wondering
with the baffled words of " heavy floodgate"
of Yangcheng Lake Crab during a period, because there
does not have a good crab in the adjacent place of sluice
gate in my impression. After the meddler criticizes of
a text in many ways, I draw the conclusion: The large
grease crab's name origin had something to do with the
tool which caught the crab unexpectedly: " The person
who catches crab, among the harbors, must set up one floodgate
, floodgate come to imprison the floodgate at night ,
put a lights at the bamboo weir with the bamboo plaiting
article, the crab sees the flame , namely climb up the
bamboo floodgate , people can catch it on the floodgate
right away , it is very convenient, this is the origin
of the name of the floodgate crab. " Bamboo floodgate
is bamboo weir, one through in network fence that bank
of the river fish, the crab reached to bamboo weir and
been caught is known as the floodgate crab, the big shape
is to call “large floodgate crab”, this make me feel laughable
would not it be more precise to call " heavy bamboo
weir crab "?
There are a lot of way to eat crab, the most general
one is steamed crab. After cleaning the living crab ,
ties crab's chela with the cotton rope , then put into
the food steamer, then to take it out when steam completely,
take away the rope, enter on the white plate neatly one
by one, the red crab with white plate, use Zhenjiang aromatic
vinegar and the powder of ginger , mixed condiments of
soy sauce at the edge of the desk. Lift the crab shell
accompanied with deep and remote thin chrysanthemum fragrance
, crab grease like jades, the ovary and digestive glands
of a crab is like gold, after going with the food with
the condiments, it is fresh and fat in the mouth, sweet
and oily, it is really the best enjoyment of color , smell
and taste.The gastrologist says there should put a whole
set of tools for eating this kind of crab: " eight
tools for crab ", pull out, dig, strike one crab
will costs you at least more than half an hour to finish
eating, in order to without missing a piece of crab meat.The
wine preserved crab is very famous way to eat crab, too.My
grandfather likes eating this stuff when I was a child,
he would like to make this stuff one or two jars every
year. |
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| Concocting
the wine preserved crab will pass more than 20 dishes
of processes, it is very troublesome. Roughly processes
are choose the big shape , fat grease and strong
river crabs or lake crabs first, enclose them in
water and raise about half a month with the thin
bamboo strips that have been woven, wait for all
platoons of filth to the limit, then dry them for
a few days, wipe off the hair and vapor the water
, put the mixture of salt and roast prickly ash
on the crab navel afterwards, put it into the wine
preserved crab in the special-purpose jar, water
into slowly with the sweet and delicious glutinous
rice wine, the very thirsty crabs would drink fully
at this moment fall over each other, until it is
dead drunk, seal the jar for a month , till it becomes
drunk material crab. And then make drunk saltwater
brine to pour into with many kinds of raw materials
, such as glutinous rice wine , salt , candy , ginger
, spring onions , Chinese prickly ash , octagonal
,fennel ,etc., pouring into the daqu wine, cover
the light plate to compress tightly, the jar is
sealed and pitches firm with thestring of kraft
paper or the lotus leaf on the mouth, it can unseal
and eat in one week. Wine preserved crab appearance
similar to the living crab , cut the crab first
while having thebanquet , removes dirty things ,
such as crab's navel (commonly called as crab's
rain cape made of straw or palm bark ) ,etc., slightly
wash original bittern, cut into small pieces, behind
the taste, there is a thin wine flavor , but have
fragrant , sweet , salty , comfortable flavor concurrently,
really sample definitely in human world , if Li
Yu tastes this kind of crab, he might be able to
say sincerely that he would devote his life for
it. |
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Once on a friend gathering, we have a dish
of wine preserved crab, each ate one crab, but shortly
a women colleague face flush with drink red , she
lies prone to be drowsy at desk soon. |
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| " It is very
fascinatingly to have the wine preserved crab, but
it is very rare that it can make people drunk .
" |
| —— Cunyan Gu |
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When crab is fat & the chrysanthemum
is blooming
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Every year when the chrysanthemums in full bloom and
the cool autumn days coming, it is the best season to
eat the crab.
I do not originally have special hobby to the crab,
I only think there is nothing different with fishes
and shrimps. But once, mother makes one garlic sprout
crab. When she is turned over and fries in the kitchen,
fragrant smell wafts out from the kitchen, the room
covering with the smell in a few seconds. Garlic sprout
crab are ready for dinner soon, that is a plate of green
and red, the jade-like crab, really make me intoxicated.
Mother is a expert to boil crab, in order to make
it convenient for us to take food, she chop crab into
2 halves usually, then cooking, there are a lot kinds
of methods to cook: sometimes steamed, sometimes quick
fry, no matter how to boil, fragrance always permeate
round the house, so fragrant that the whole family are
intoxicated. I like standing and watching aside , even
if I do not cook, it is a kind of enjoyment to view
and admire purely. At the time that crab is served,
other brilliant rays of dishes are conceal by the crab
totally, mother’s crab dish is really available delicacy
" color, fragrance and taste ".
The crab is different from the fishes and shrimps,
the meat and mouth feel all have unique delicious taste
, it is well known with the large floodgate crab particularly
among them, that can be rated as the king of crab, every
autumn, a lot of guests get Hong Kong to have the crab,
in fact, large floodgate crab does not come from Hong
Kong, its produce area is in Jiangsu Yangcheng Lake,
large floodgate of lake crab in Yangchen Lake is the
highest grade in the crab from ancient times , thousands
of people are fascinated and chasing for it. Yangcheng
Lake Crab were mainly sold outside in the past, the
majority was transported to Hong Kong, but in recent
years, a lot of people like to get to the origin produce
area to enjoy it. Shanghai is regarded as a district
of eating large floodgate crab, too. People can have
genuine and cheap delicious large floodgate crab there.
I have not tasted for the large floodgate crabs of Hong
Kong , but I have gorged on Shanghai instead. Common
people likes to take crab from crab's grease , because
the grease in the crab shell can be the most delicious
part; And the crab has the common mother's differences,
generally speaking, the male crab's grease comparatively
slips softly , so persons who has a liking for crab
generally all prefer eating the male one, but in the
ninth lunar month, in season for mating of crab, female
crab’s belly will full of crab ovum, so mother crab
of September are the most luxuriant.
In fact, the charming part of
the crab, is its changeable mouth feeling. For example,
it is fresh and fat in the mouth, sweet and oily, it
is really the best enjoyment of color , smell and taste
, from foot to crab's chela , every portion represents
different style and features of sense of taste from
crab , that make people ecstatic deeply. How to deal
with the large floodgate crab there has the method。The
expert people will break two crab chelas off with the
fingers and
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thumb first , unload the crab's feet, later people
can open the cover of crab easily , there contains the
most favorite grease of a crab inside, tender sweet.
After having the crab's grease, begin to enjoy crab’s
feet one by one. In fact, eating crab's feet needs some
skills , too, breath in or dig, enjoyment comes from
that process of sucking while digging. Somebody’s skill
is even higher, he can have whole crab clean and completely
and at the sametime he can remain the crab’s appearance
as general like the sample unexpectedly.
In addition, the first-class ginger vinegar juice
is a indispensable condiments while take large floodgate
crab , the ovary and grease of a crab, crab meat, stained
with the ginger and vinegar juice, it will produce the
catalysis at once, the ginger vinegar removes the offensive
smell of the crab ingeniously , and can promote meat
to be sweet , if one more pot of the high-grade crusted
Shaoxing wine that can match warmly just right , it
was delicious , fat , sweet and refreshing that the
mellow wine added to the crab fragrantly, really brings
out the best in each other, that is really the highest
enjoyment in human world , it is no wonder for Bi Zhuo
in Jin Dynasty said " holding a wineglass in right hand,
holding a crab chela in left hand , floating in a boat
, all one's life will settle for that ".
Crab makes a lot of people like it enthusiastically
from ancient times. At the beginning of Qing Dynasty
, there is a celebrated scholar in the south of China,
Li Yu said " one chela thing only , heart can interested
in it, mouth can taste its sweet, no matter which day
in all one's life, can't all forget it ". He is a sheer
epicurean, and a gourmet too, he likes eating crabs
particularly, for being able to have the crab in the
season of the year and take it everyday, he will save
money before the time coming, in order that he can afford
the expense of the crab on that time. What’s more, he
study different types of crab cooking, there is a special
place for him to make the wine preserved crab in his
house. To the crab, he makes all-out efforts, even asking
the special messenger to specialize in all of the crab,
he is indeed crazy about the crab.
There is a famous fishing port in our counties and
cities, so long as there is a fishing port , there are
fishing cities. Seafood there are all fresh new goods
that debark just most, a lot of people will get there
to eat one cheap and delicious seafood banquet far away.
The crab there is fat and big , so there is seldom only
whole steamed , most likely chop into pieces of dismemberment
of the crab, only that crab chela, just as big as pliers
accurately. Each restaurant or little shop in the fishing
port are all good at boiling crabs, the price is much
cheaper than the urban restaurant, too, that attracts
a lot of guests love to fishing port to the fresh seafood.
Even if inside and outside the large floodgate crab's
name is enjoyed, but the people, who are not in the
eating area in large floodgate crab, get to fishing
port to eat crabs in autumn still can make people feel
intoxicated , returns after thoroughly enjoying oneself.
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